Pagan Mountaineering

Moab Utah Climbing Shop     

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Area Climbing

 

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NEW GUIDE AVAILABLE NOW AT PAGAN MOUNTAINEERING

NEW GUIDE BOOK BY LOCAL AUTHOR KARL KELLEY AVAILABLE NOW

Cragging

From splitter cracks to technical sandstone face, Moab’s local crags are a great way to spend the day.

Wall Street

Undeniably the most accessible cragging spot around Moab.  Wall St. offers traditional, sport, and mixed climbing ranging from 5.5 – 5.12+.

Wall Street remains in the sun from morning through mid-afternoon.

Gear: 60 meter rope, Standard Traditional Rack (doubles .3-3), harness, and two pairs of shoes for crack and technical face climbing.

Guide Book: “High On Moab” by Karl Kelley, “Classic Desert Climbs” by Fred Knapp, “Rock Climbing Utah” by Stewart Green, “Desert Rock II” by Eric BjØrnstad (out of print)

Kane Creek & The Ice Cream Parlor

A popular spot for climbers looking for more relaxed climbing with traditional and sport routes ranging from 5.6 – 5.11+.

The Ice Cream Parlor receives sun from early to late afternoon.

Gear: 60 meter rope, Standard Traditional Rack, harness, shoes for face climbing on small pockets and ledges.

Guide Book:  “High On Moab” by Karl Kelley, “Classic Desert Climbs” by Fred Knapp, “Rock Climbing Utah” by Stewart Green, “Desert Rock III” by Eric BjØrnstad

Potash Road
Day & Long Canyon

Looking for Indian Creek quality cracks without the crowds? Day and Long Canyon offer quality Wingate cracks off the beaten path in the 5.9 and 5.12+ range.

Gear: 70 meter rope, standard desert rack, harness, crack shoes.

Guide Book: “High On Moab” by Karl Kelley,  “Classic Desert Climbs” by Fred Knapp, “Rock Climbing Utah” by Stewart Green


Bouldering

Leave the rope at home and strap on your little shoes for pulling down on these sandstone pebbles! Though Moab is most known for its sandstone spires and splitter cracks, the area’s bouldering can give you a much needed rest when your hands have gobies, and your cams need a good cleaning.

Big Bend

Moab’s primo bouldering area stacked with problems from V0 – V11 making Big Bend ideal for folks looking to hook up with other climbers for an afternoon burn session, or all day fun.

Gear: Shoes, generally a down turned sport/bouldering shoe will work best on the overhangs and thin edges, Boulder Pad, Chalk.

Guide Book: “High On Moab” by Karl Kelley,  “Utah Bouldering” by Chris Grijalva, “A Bouldering Guide to Utah” by Jeff Baldwin, “Classic Desert Climbs” by Fred Knapp

Crack House

Crack climbing in a horizontal world. Slap on your tape gloves for this eighty foot roof crack that has everything from wide to thin hands, fist jams, and ring locks. Boulder problems outside the cave mark the start of the route seen in Masters of Stone V, as well as giving you a break from seemingly endless jamming.

Gear: Tape and lots of it, Boulder Pad, Crack Shoes, and Chalk.

Guide Book: “High On Moab” my Karl Kelley,  “Desert Rock IV” by Eric BjØrnstad


Indian Creek

With hundreds of cracks splitting its Wingate buttresses, Indian Creek has been marked a climber’s destination for decades. From finger shredding tips cracks, through perfect hands, to gut wrenching off-widths, you can find anything to fit your climbing needs.

Gear: Two 60 meter ropes (though a 70 meter is nice), Standard Desert Rack (plus additional gear in your preferred size), harness, Crack Shoes, Tape.

Guide Books: “Indian Creek” – A Climber’s Guide 3rd Edition by David Bloom, “Classic Desert Climbs” by Fred Knapp, “Rock Climbing Utah” by Stewart Green


Towers

Desert climbing the way it was meant to be.

Fisher Towers

“Steep walls with mud curtains, fluted chimneys, and undulating bulges soar overhead. Stone diving boards protrude from grotesquely twisted summits… To climb here is to submit oneself to several days of abuse, including fear, frustration, intimidation, and an all-encompassing grime. When touched, the dry mud veneer disintegrates to pebbles and grit, filling the air to the point of suffocation.” –Katy Cassidy & Earl Wiggins, Canyon Country Climbs, 1989

Gear: Two 60 meter Ropes, Standard Desert Rack, Aid Gear depending on individual climb, harness, Crack Shoes

Guide Books: “High On Moab” by Karl Kelley, “Desert Rock III” by Eric BjØrnstad, “Classic Desert Climbs” by Fred Knapp, “Rock Climbing Utah” by Stewart Green

Castle Valley

Home to some of the most classic desert climbs, Castle Valley has been witness to summit-top car commercials and haul bag Bar-B-Qs. Aside from the area’s colorful history, Castle Valley’s Castleton Tower, Priest, Nun, Rectory, and Sister Superior offer amazing multi-pitch tower climbing and true desert splendor.

Gear: Two 60 meter Ropes, Standard Desert Rack, harness, Crack Shoes, Tape

Guide Books:  “High On Moab” by Karl Kelley, “Desert Rock III” by Eric BjØrnstad, “Classic Desert Climbs” by Fred Knapp, “Rock Climbing Utah” by Stewart Green

Arches National Park**

Though the park has seen many changes since the days of Edward Abbey’s wilderness, the towers and sandstone spires about which he wrote,     remain unchanged. The blue bird sky and snow capped La Sal Mountains still leave a climber with a feeling of Desert Solitaire.

Gear: Two 60 meter Ropes, Standard Desert Rack, Aid Gear depending on individual climb, harness, Crack Shoes, NO CHALK*

Guide Books: “High On Moab” by Karl Kelley, “Desert Rock” by Eric BjØrnstad, “Classic Desert Climbs” by Fred Knapp, “Rock Climbing Utah” by Stewart Green

Canyonlands National Park**

Accessible by the Needles District or Island in the Sky, Canyonlands offers tower climbing at all levels of adventure. Be mindful of local weather and road conditions if climbing in Canyonlands, as the climbing is not always the crux of your journey. For road conditions check with the National Park Service.

Gear: Two 60 meter Ropes, Standard Desert Rack, Aid Gear depending on individual climb, harness, Crack Shoes, NO Chalk*

Guide Books: “High On Moab” by Karl Kelley, “Desert Rock” by Eric BjØrnstad, “Classic Desert Climbs” by Fred Knapp, “Rock Climbing Utah” by Stewart Green

Link to park service web site for white rim road conditions

http://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/whiterimroad.htm


*Please note NO Chalk while climbing in the National Parks. Please check with the NP service for current climbing  seasonal closure for nesting birds and wildlife migration.

**Please remember when on the rock you are not alone. The National Parks receive tens of thousands of visitors who wish to observe the beauty and natural wonder of the area we love so much. When climbing please be respectful to those visitors by doing what you can to not draw attention toward yourself and your partner.

Brands We Carry

Adidas, Altra, Arc’teryx, Big Agnes, Black Diamond, BlueWater, Buff, Brooks, CamelBak, C.A.M.P, Cassin, D.C Shoes, Darn Tough, Edelrid, Evolv, Feathered Friends, FITS, Five Ten, Goal Zero, Gransfor Bruks, HELLE knives, Hydro Flask, JetBoil, Julbo, Keen, KUHL, LaSportiva, Mad Rock, Mammut, Metolius, Misty Mountain, MSR, OBOZ, Organic, Patagonia, Native Eyewear, Salewa, Salomon, Sanuk, Scarpa, SmartWool, Smith Optics, Spyderco, SuperFeet, Suunto, Totem, Trango, Petzl, Prana, Volcom, Yates

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